Hangboard Finger Training: A Hand Therapist’s Guide for Intermediate Climbers
As climbers, we’ve all felt that deep satisfaction of completing a hard route or sending a long-term boulder project. But, like you, I’ve also experienced the frustration of plateaus in strength or even those dreaded finger injuries that seem to crop up just when things are going well.
Whether you’re looking to boost your crimp strength, improve your open-hand grip, or fortify those pulley tendons, hangboarding is a go-to tool for many climbers. However, it’s crucial to understand the nuances of the methods you use to ensure gains without pain.
Why Hangboard Training Matters
Finger strength is foundational for climbing. Unlike general fitness training, climbing-specific strength often revolves around grip positions and the ability to maintain force on small holds. Hangboards allow for isolated and targeted strength development, especially for intermediate climbers looking to push their limits. But as with any training, not all methods are created equal.
Let’s break down the most popular hangboard training methods, along with their pros and cons.
Maximal Hangs
What It Is: Involve gripping a small edge or pocket on a hangboard with as much force as you can muster for short durations, typically 7-10 seconds, with long rests in between sets (e.g., 3-5 minutes).
Pros:
Builds raw finger strength.
Highly specific to climbing grip positions.
Efficient: minimal time commitment per session.
Cons:
High intensity increases the risk of injury, especially for those with pre-existing finger issues.
Requires thorough warm-up to avoid strain on tendons and pulleys.
My Take as a Therapist:
Maximal hangs are effective but should only be done when you have a solid base of finger strength. They’re not for climbers nursing injuries or those who haven’t trained fingers consistently. Gradual progression is key here to avoid overload injuries like pulley strains.
Repeaters
What It Is: involve hanging from a hold for a set period (e.g., 7 seconds) and then resting briefly (e.g., 3 seconds), repeated for multiple reps in a set. This is often performed for endurance or power endurance training.
Pros:
Great for building forearm endurance.
Mimics the pump experienced during longer climbs.
Lower intensity compared to maximal hangs, reducing injury risk.
Cons:
Time-consuming due to the longer workout duration.
May not improve absolute finger strength as effectively as maximal hangs.
My Take as a Therapist:
For intermediate climbers aiming to push their endurance, repeaters are a solid option. Ensure your grip position is varied to avoid repetitive strain on the same tendons and joints.
Weighted Hangs
What It Is: Weighted hangs add extra resistance to your hangs by using a harness or attaching weights to your body.
Pros:
Accelerates strength gains by increasing load.
Effective for advanced climbers who need additional stimulus.
Cons:
Significantly increases injury risk if not done with proper form or progression.
Not recommended for climbers with tendon issues or those new to hangboard training.
My Take as a Therapist:
Weighted hangs can be transformative, but they demand respect. A common mistake I see is climbers jumping into weighted hangs without mastering bodyweight training first. Proper progression and a focus on recovery are essential.
One-Arm Hangs
What It Is: Hanging from the hangboard using one arm, often supported by a resistance band or partial bodyweight reduction.
Pros:
Develops unilateral strength and highlights imbalances.
Advanced progression for climbers looking to refine specific grip types.
Cons:
Extremely high intensity, with a steep learning curve.
Higher risk of elbow, shoulder, or pulley injuries.
My Take as a Therapist:
One-arm hangs are best reserved for advanced climbers who have a robust foundation in hangboarding and general climbing fitness. Support from resistance bands or pulley system can make this method safer, but it’s still an advanced technique.
Block Pulls (aka Farmer Crimps)
What It Is: Block pulls involve using a pinch or crimp grip to lift a weighted plates off the ground. This method replicates grip loading in a dynamic way with different force vector than hangboarding.
Pros:
Builds pinch strength and crimp endurance in a functional manner.
Allows for finger training if you have shoulder pain
Allows for progressive loading by adjusting weights
Engages stabilizing muscles, improving grip stability overall.
Cons:
Harder to isolate specific grip positions compared to hangboarding.
Dynamic movement can increase the risk of acute strain if done with improper form.
My Take as a Therapist:
Block pulls are a fantastic complement to hangboarding, especially for climbers looking to diversify their grip strength training. However, as with all loaded exercises, start conservatively and prioritize proper technique to prevent strain injuries.
Therapist Tip:
Use a variety of grips, such as narrow pinches or half crimp, to target different muscle groups. If you notice discomfort in your tendons or joints, consider reducing the weight or switching to an open-hand grip.
General Hangboard Tips from a Therapist
1. Warm Up Thoroughly: A dynamic warm-up and progressive loading are essential to prepare your tendons for hangboarding.
2. Listen to Your Body: Persistent pain, especially in the fingers, should not be ignored. Back off and reassess.
3. Track Your Progress: Document your sessions to ensure you’re following a safe progression.
4. Integrate Recovery: Tendons take longer to adapt than muscles, so give your fingers adequate rest.
5. Seek Guidance: If you’re unsure about your technique or programming, consult a coach—or a hand therapist like me.
Hangboarding, when done right, can be a game-changer for intermediate climbers. By understanding the pros and cons of different methods, you can tailor your training to meet your goals while minimizing the risk of injury. As a climber and hand therapist, my goal is to help you climb harder and longer without sacrificing your fingers in the process.
Got questions or want to optimize your training program? Reach out—I’m here to help!
